Daniel Patterson, the self-taught chef, prepared a complex assortment of dishes using dozens of locally sourced ingredients to meticulously prepare his menu inspired by French, Japanese and molecular techniques. Each of the 12+ dishes was an intellectual journey, with all the senses at play. This was a special dinner not to be taken lightly.
The wine list was impressive. 350 wines selected from around the world, with a focus on France and California. The list was eclectic and refined to accompany Patterson’s mastery.
The gastronomic evening began with a few dishes in which texture and scent were the main force. We started with an amuse bouche of cold gelatin of milk with a tiny flower garnish. Then, a solitary white globe arrived in an exquisite small ceramic bowl; the cold mousse-like creation was filled with pink grapefruit infused with ginger, tarragon, and black pepper. We were told to dab the perfume of grapefruit oil on our wrists as an accompaniment to the dish, (I kid you not). The next dish was three small slices of sculpted beets of different colors perfumed with citrus oil and vadouvan, an exotic blend of Indian spices. Fun and experimental, I was happy to try a few cold small dishes that kick-started the critiquing around the table.
The dinner progressed with a simple salad of chicories and a “sheet” of olive and cheese tart. Next came the “Winter into Spring”, first of the season asparagus topped with shaved buttermilk ice, while others ordered the parsnip and green onion soup filled with local snails, pardon chile flakes, and radishes. I particularly liked the sturgeon poached in smoked oil with a transparent small slice of pig’s head, decorated with caviar on a small bed of crushed potatoes infused with nasturtium. The “Black and White Shellfish Porridge” of abalone, mussel, clam and broccoli di ciccio, and “Slow Cooked Farm Egg” on roasted farro, erbette chard in a brown butter parmesan sauce represented the true essence of the ingredients selected.
What is that I tasted in the dish named “Earth and Sea” (too sophisticated to be simply called Surf and Turf), the steam tofu mousseline, yuba, fresh seaweeds, mushroom dashi? Is that UMAMI I sense in the French-influenced mousseline and in the Japanese-inspired dashi? The savory course ended with Prather Ranch beef loin, a fine cut of pasture beef accompanied with a traditional French-style reduction sauce.
A simple yet refined presentation of Andante’s Trio cheese arrived with some micro-greens. The mignardises were placed on the table. And the dessert course began. First, a plate of blood orange curd, Douglas fir ice cream (yes, pine flavor) and walnut crumble. Then, we partake in the richer course of chocolate mesquite cake and squash sherbet. We were sipping our Sauternes, sharing our thoughts at what we believed to be the end of the meal, and just then, like in the final scenes of The Return of the King, to our delight, the meal continued on. Exquisite, delicious truffles covered with a crumbly coating were devoured. We dared to ask for another plate. Before finishing the truffles, and a cup of warm vanilla crème anglaise drizzled with olive oil was served as the final dish of the evening.
No doubt, the chef is a perfectionist. Each dish was carefully crafted – the marriage of colors, the creation of contrasting textures, the balance of flavors, and the selection of each ceramic and porcelain plate – a canvas for a chef with a poetic and artistic vision.
The evening was special, most of all because a group of thoughtful and opinionated foodies shared an experimental multi-course meal together. The secret to enjoying the meal at Coi is to enter with an open mind, and to simply enjoy the unique experience that arrives with every course.
Bay Area Food Snob 